This adorable small, nocturnal species comes from arid, rocky regions in Pakistan. Formerly known as Teratolepis fasciata, the species was recently reclassified as Hemidactylus imbricatus.
Appearance
The very distinctive markings of this species consist of a white to very pale cream background colour, with stripes in alternating shades of brown, ranging from pale, sandy brown to dark chocolate, running along the body from the snout to the tip of the tale. A series of lateral bands of almost lozenge-shaped pale, almost white markings transverse these stripes. The overall body shape of the species is also distinctive, with slender limbs, stocky body and, in healthy specimens, a chunky, broad, but tapering tail that displays prominent scalation. It is this last feature that gives the species its alternative common name of carrot-tailed gecko. A further distinctive feature of this species is its eye colour, which is a deep, almost bronze brown. Although these are nominally terrestrial geckos, they are excellent climbers, as they possess two rows of lamellae on the underside of their toes, which allow them to adhere to even smooth surfaces (I've often found my viper geckos climbing vertically up the glass sides of their enclosures).
Photograph top left shows an adult female viper gecko displaying the colouring, patterning and scalation typical of this species. The photograph on the right is of a adult male viper gecko showing the distinctive eye colouration.
Size
Viper geckos are small, terrestrial geckos measuring approximately 110mm - 120mm in length and weighing up to about 6g when mature.Sexing
Males viper geckos can be easily distinguished from females by the presence of a prominent hemipenile bulge.
The adult male viper gecko in the left hand photograph shows a clear hemipenile bulge, whereas this feature is absent in the adult female in the right hand image.
Care requirements
Viper geckos are, generally speaking, a hardy species that is easy to care for due to its simple husbandry requirements.
Housing
Although I house my females together, males are housed separately; this is an incredibly prolific species and females frequently suffer from severe health problems, even death, due to over-breeding. Indeed, when I acquired my viper geckos, it was from a seller who had introduced a male: female pair for breeding. The female produced so many clutches of eggs that, although her previous owner had provided her with excellent care, her weight plummeted to 3.2g (for comparison, her healthy weight now stands at 6.2g). In order to reduce the risk to the health of the female, I would therefore strongly recommend allowing the female a prolonged period of rest over the winter period during which she can recuperate and regain condition if breeding is to occur; I would also suggest that females should only be bred every other year, just to be on the safeside.
Enclosure
A minimum enclosure size of 60cm x 30cm x 30cm is adequate for this relatively small species. Given their propensity for climbing, I would definitely recommend making sure that the vivarium has a properly fitting lid.
Temperature
As with many of my geckos, I provide additional heating for this species by using a heat mat covering approximately half the floor area of the vivarium, which is controlled by a thermostat. The hot end temperature in viper gecko enclosures should be approximately 33°C (91°F), whilst cold end temperature can be 24°C (75°).
Humidity
It is not necessary to raise humidity levels by spraying the vivarium with water (other than in the moist hide) for this arid-region species.
Lighting
No artificial lighting is necessary for this nocturnal species, as long as they can establish a day-night cycle by having exposure to light from a window.
Substrate
Like leopard geckos, viper geckos come from arid, rocky areas; I therefore provide them with a similar substrate, i.e. sheets of thin slate, with very fine-grained play sand being used to fill any gaps between the rocks.
Decor
A number of small hides made from upturned plant saucers, securely arranged rocks providing crevices, pieces of cork bark etc should be provided; I've found that cork bark is particularly popular with this species, perhaps because it provides them with an excellent camouflage opportunities. I also provide my viper geckos with a moist hide containing damp sphagnum moss, which is lightly sprayed daily to assist with shedding; I've frequently seen them hiding in these.
Feeding
Viper geckos are voracious insectivores, readily eating small (2nd instar) crickets, hatchling locusts, mini-mealworm and dubia roach nymphs. On average, my adults receive between 8 and 10 feeders, three or four times per week.
Water
A small dish of water, which should be changed daily, should be available at all times.
Supplements
All feeders should be dusted with supplements; a calcium balancer with vitamin D3 (such as Nutrobal) should be used once or twice a week, with feeders being dusted with a pure calcium powder (for example Komodo Cricket Dust) at all other times. Geckos should also always have access to a small dish of pure calcium in their vivarium. This is especially important in the case of breeding females, as additional calcium in the diet is essential to prevent them from experiencing a 'calcium crash' during egg laying.
