Rhacodactylus sarasinorum

Slender prehensile-tailed geckos or saras as they are frequently referred to by keepers are crepuscular / nocturnal, semi-arboreal geckos that, like the other members of the genus, originate from the tropical forests of New Caledonia, where they tend to inhabit high tree-tops. They are seen relatively infrequently in the pet trade, though they are sometimes available to buy from dedicated breeders of Rhacodactylus species geckos.

Sub-adult male slender prehensile-tailed gecko

The image above shows a sub-adult male sara displaying the typical brown mottled pattern of this species.

Appearance

Saras are the most slender-looking of the Rhacodactylus species, being longer and sleeker than crested geckos. Their comparatively narrow heads are lacking the crests of their more popular cousins, though they possess the large, prominent, unlidded eyes characteristic of the genus. The slim limbs of saras terminate in narrow, sleek toes, with lamellae on their underside. The body colour of saras is predominantly brown, though this can range from a uniform, solid colour to mottled, with colours ranging from dark chocolate to a pale golden-ginger. Speckling of a contrasting colour is also frequently apparent. Saras have a characteristic V-shaped "collar", which extends from the exterior edge of the eye to the shoulder; in most individuals, this is darker than the overall body colour. However, in the so-called 'white-collared' morph, this colour is pale cream to white in colour and frequently accompanied by two rows of pale spots running laterally along the spine of the animals. As this trait appears to be recessive, white-collared animals are comparatively rare and often command high prices.

Size

Adult saras are comparatively large geckos and can attain a total length of approximately 200mm, with the normal weight being up to approximately 60g. They are therefore the fourth largest of the geckos belonging to the genus Rhacodactylus, being only marginally smaller than the chahoua.

Sexing

As with most geckos, male saras can be distinguish by the presence of both a large hemipenile bulge and a double row of pre-anal pores, features that are absent on females.

Care requirements

The husbandry of virtually identical to that required by crested geckos.

Housing

As with most gecko species, males are highly territorial and will fight, so only one male should be housed per enclosure. Although breeding groups consisting of one male and up to three females can be housed together, they require close monitoring to ensure that no bullying / fighting is taking place.

Enclosure

Saras are comparatively large, flighty, active geckos; for that reason, one individual should be housed in an arboreal enclosure that is an absolute minimum of 45cm x 45cm x 60cm, though ideally a larger enclosure should be provided if possible. For pairs or breeding groups, larger enclosures must be provided, with 90cm x 60cm x 90cm at least being provided.

Temperature

It is frequently stated in care sheets that it is possible to keep saras without additional heating as long as the ambient daytime temperature of the room in which they are kept lies within a range between 21°C and 27°C (70°F and 80°F). However, even when the ambient room temperature is in the desired range, I have found that it can sometimes be difficult to create a suitable temperature gradient within the vivaria to enable the geckos to thermoregulate properly and have therefore recently started using incandescent light bulbs to create a basking spot for all of my Rhacodactylus sp geckos, including the R. sarasinorum. The bulbs are housed in canopies placed above the vivaria and, as always with all artificial heat sources, are controlled by suitable thermostats (for personal preference I use Habistat dimmer stats). Using this technique, I have been able to produce a thermal gradient of between 27C (80F) directly under the basking spot and 21C (70F) at the base of the vivarium. Since introducing the basking spots, I have noticed a positive change in the behaviour of my geckos: overall, they are considerably more active and there has been a noticeable improvement in their (already good) appetites.

Humidity

Saras require humidity levels of between 55% and 80%, which can be achieved by spraying the enclosure with water at least once a day. Rather than provide constantly high humidity, I have found it best to thoroughly mist the foliage so that it is dripping wet each evening; this will result in humidity of approximately 80%, which will fall over the next 24 hours, until a approximately 55% is reached immediately before the enclosure is sprayed once again.

Lighting

As long as saras have access to sufficient natural light from a window to enable them to establish a day-night cycle, then artificial lighting is not absolutely essential. However, I have found that using an incandescent bulb to create a basking spot (see temperature) and also offering UVB light has had a beneficial effect on my geckos health..

Substrate

I've use eco earth in my sara vivarium, as it maintains the high levels of humidity the species requires.

Decor

As saras are an arboreal species, they require a variety of cork branches, cork bark pieces, vines etc to give them the opportunity to climb. Given the larger size of these geckos, the branches should be sturdier than those used for crested geckos and should be oriented in a range of angles, from diagonal to vertical so that they have ample opportunity to climb. Foliage should also be provided so that the vivarium is at least partially screened, in order to make the geckos feel more secure.

Example of a <em>Rhacodactylus sp</em> gecko vivarium

Further example of a <em>Rhacodactylus sp</em> gecko vivarium

The above images show examples of the vivaria I use to house geckos of the genus Rhacodactylus.

Feeding

Saras, like all Rhacodactylus species, are omnivores and should therefore be provided with a varied diet. They will readily eat a variety of feeder insects (including crickets, locusts and dubia roaches, all of which are eaten enthusiastically), a selection of lightly puréed or coarsely chopped fruit (melon, mango, cherries and figs all seem popular), as well as the proprietary Crested Gecko Diets (CGD). Indeed, saras, like chahoua and gargoyle geckos, seem particularly partial to live food; I therefore offer mine a higher proportion of feeders than I do for my crested geckos, alternating between offering feeders and fruit for my saras.

Water

Although saras frequently drink by licking that lands on the glass and foliage when their vivarium is sprayed, they should also have access to a small bowl of clean, fresh water at all times.

Supplements

If CGD is used as a staple, then most of the nutritional requirements of a crested gecko will be met, as it contains all of the vitamins and minerals that they require. However, if feeder insects are also offered, then these should dusted with pure calcium powder; it is not necessary to dust with a calcium balancer containing vitamin D3, as CGD already contains this vitamin.

Family Gekkonidae Subfamily Diplodactylinae