Rhacodactylus auriculatus

Another commonly kept species of the genus Rhacodactylus originating from New Caledonia is the gargoyle gecko. Like the other species, this is also a crepuscular / nocturnal species that inhabits tropical forests and scrublands.

Appearance

Gargoyle geckos are somewhat more heavily built than cresties and have a far chunkier appearance overall. Their heads are narrower than those of the crested gecko, with a series of prominent bumps occuring on the crown of the head giving this species its common name. The overall background colour of these animals tends to be pale through mid-brown to a deep chocolate colour, which can be overlain by a colours ranging white / pale cream, to bright orange or even deep red. The pattern made by these colours can range from spotted, banded, reticulated or even form a series of clear, prominent stripes running from the head to the tail of the gecko. Combinations of these pattern forms can also be exhibited by individual geckos. Although gargoyle geckos also possess the lamellae on their feet that are one of the characteristic features of this genus, those on gargoyles are much reduced compared to those of either crested geckos or chahoua. It should be noted that the appearance of any given gecko is highly variable, as their colouration can fluctuate as a result of different temperatures, moods etc, a process known as 'firing up'.

Orange striped gargoyle gecko when 'fired down'

Orange striped gargoyle gecko when 'fired up'

White striped gargoyle gecko when 'fired down'

White striped gargoyle gecko when 'fired up'

Orange reticulated gargoyle gecko when 'fired down'

Orange reticulated gargoyle gecko when 'fired up'

Photographs showing both different morphs of gargoyle gecko and the variation in single individuals as a result of 'firing up'. The top two photographs show the same orange striped gargoyle fired down in the left hand photograph and fired up in the right; the two photographs in the middle show a white striped gargoyle fired down in the left hand photograph and fired up in the right; the lower pair of photographs show an orange reticulated gargoyle, fired down and fired up respectively.

Size

Adult gargoyle geckos can reach a total length of approximately 200mm and weigh anything up to about 40g.

Sexing

As with many gecko species, males possess both a large hemipenile bulge and a double row of pre-anal pores.

Care requirements

Gargoyle geckos require virtually identical care to that of crested geckos; their care is therefore relatively straightforward.

Housing

Gargoyle geckos are arguably the most 'anti-social' of all the Rhacodactylus species. Housing individuals together frequently results in fighting, with one cage mate often being observed to eat the tail of another. For this reason, gargoyle geckos are best housed individually, especially when young.

Enclosure

Like the other members of this genus, gargoyle geckos are semi-arboreal and therefore require vivaria that permit them abundant climbing room. For single individuals a 45cm x 45cm x 60cm exo terra glass vivarium is perfect for this species.

Temperature

It is frequently stated in care sheets that it is possible to keep gargoyle geckos without additional heating as long as the ambient daytime temperature of the room in which they are kept lies in a range between 21°C and 27°C (70°F and 80°F). However, even when the ambient room temperature is within the desired range, I have found that it can sometimes be difficult to create a suitable temperature gradient within the vivaria to enable the geckos to thermoregulate properly and have therefore recently started using incandescent light bulbs to create a basking spot for all of my Rhacodactylus sp geckos, including the R. auriculatus. The bulbs are housed in canopies placed above the vivaria and, as always with all artificial heat sources, are controlled by suitable thermostats (for personal preference I use Habistat dimmer stats). Using this technique, I have been able to produce a thermal gradient of between 27C (80F) directly under the basking spot and 21C (70F) at the base of the vivarium. Since introducing the basking spots, I have noticed a positive change in the behaviour of my geckos: overall, they are considerably more active and there has been a noticeable improvement in their (already good) appetites.

Humidity

High humidity levels of between 55% and 80% are required by this species, necessitating the spraying of their vivaria at least once per day. I have found it best to aim to attain humidity levels of approximately 80% by spraying the vivaria heavily in the evening and then allowing humidity levels to fall over the ensuing 24 hours until levels stand at approximately 55% and 60% immediately before the enclosure is sprayed once again.

Lighting

As long as gargoyle geckos have access to sufficient natural light from a window to enable them to establish a day-night cycle, then artificial lighting is not absolutely essential. However, I have found that using an incandescent bulb to create a basking spot (see temperature) and also offering UVB light has had a beneficial effect on my geckos health..

Substrate

In order to maintain the high levels of humidity required by this species, I've found eco earth to be the best substrate to use in their vivaria.

Decor

Gargoyle geckos should be provided with branches, pieces of cork bark, vines etc so that they have plenty of climbing surfaces. Due to the comparatively small size of their lamellae, gargoyle geckos are not as agile at climbing as crested geckos or chahoua; the surface texture of decor should therefore be quite rough to assist them in climbing. Unlike cresties, gargoyles geckos frequently prefer to rest on horizontal or diagonal surfaces, rather than simply hiding among foliage; the vivaria should therefore be designed with this in mind. However, they should also be provided with plenty of foliage to so that they can conceal themselves if they choose to do so, although they are often to be found basking in the open.

Example of a <em>Rhacodactylus sp</em> gecko vivarium

Further example of a <em>Rhacodactylus sp</em> gecko vivarium

The above images show examples of the vivaria I use to house geckos of the genus Rhacodactylus.

Feeding

The research conducted by Snyder et al. (2010) concluded that gargoyle geckos "may have the most atypical of all gekkonid diets", due to the variety of food they consume in the wild; this included fruit, nectar, a variety of insects and even smaller geckos and skinks. Although the complete replication of this diet is obviously impractical in a captive environment, I attempt to reproduce it as far as is possible by offering my gargoyle geckos a variety of feeder insects (including crickets, locusts and dubia roaches, all of which are eaten enthusiastically) and puréed fruit, supplemented occasionally with Crested Gecko Diet. Indeed, as it has been estimated that gargoyle geckos require a higher proportion of protein in their diet than cresties, I therefore alternate between offering fruit and live food to my gargoyles.

Water

Although gargoyle geckos will generally drink from the water droplets that form on the foliage in their vivarium when they are sprayed, they will occasionally drink from a water bowl too. A bowl of fresh water should therefore be available at all times.

Supplements

As long as CGD is used as a staple and all feeders are dusted in pure calcium powder, there is no need to provide any additional supplementation.

Hatchling / juvenile care

Hatchling gargoyle geckos are best housed in large faunariums, with abundant foliage and pieces or cork bark or mopani wood etc in order to make them feel more secure in their surroundings. Young gargoyles, unlike older juveniles and adults, frequently show a reluctance when it comes to accepting live food; I have observed that they often ignore feeder insects until they have reached the age of four to five months or so. However, they then seem to suddenly gain a taste for live food and will happily accept crickets, locusts and dubia roaches.

Family Gekkonidae Subfamily Diplodactylinae